This is a new version, I guess you could say my version of someone else's idea.
I would like to thank Terry Young and Dave The Dead, there combined ideas inspired this prop
It's fairly simple, just a bit time consuming..
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To
the left are
pics of a pattern that starts this prop. As you can see I
Glued the pattern on a piece of plywood. I did this so I could use the pattern over and over without using up my printer ink and paper. If you only want to make one print it out and tape the sections to the foam insulation board and cut it out from there. You can get the pattern here: Skeleton Pattern |
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| I cut out all the pieces.
I seriously doubt
I will ever use all of them, however I cut all pieces out anyway because other ideas are swimming around in my head. You never know when your going to need a femur or ribcage lying around somewhere! |
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| This is 3/4 inch
insulation foam board. One
4x8 sheet will give you 3 sets of bones to make the Rising Spirit. If you want to make that many. Here I have already traced one set of bones, about to start tracing a 2nd and I have already cut out a 3rd set. Note: For the arm bones, both right and left forearm(#44, #47) and upper arm bones(#43, #46) you need to make 2 of each. I guess I should mention all bones are numbered on the pattern. |
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| I point these 2 pieces out
because you will also need extra of them as well. #13, you will need 4 more. #27, I used this one as a spacer between the ribs, so you will need 11 more. Also 1/4" to 1/2" from the back of #27, I cut a hole with a 7/8 wood boring bit. This will be used as a template so all of the ribcage aligns on the pvc. |
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| Ok, all bones are cut out.
next step, drilling and sanding, sanding, sanding........did I mention sanding! |
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| First thing, cut the palms
off the Forearms. On the pattern they show thumbs, don't worry about them at all. Save the palms for later. |
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| Next I made a trench down
all 8 arm bone pieces just big enough to fit a piece of polyethylene tubing. Pictured is the upperarm pieces, you will need to do it to the forearm pieces as well. |
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| I ran the tubing down the
trench. Using
Gorilla glue, I brushed it on and put the sections together. Set them in an out of the way place with a few weights on them for better contact and moved on to the ribs. |
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| Here's where the sanding
starts. I used a
Dremel sanding drum to knock the edges off, then ran them over a palm sander on the outside and hand sanded the inside. The amount of sanding is up to you, you might get away without sanding the inside if no one will be close enough to notice. |
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| Just a quick note, there
are 2 tabs of sorts on rib 20, they are not neccsary for this prop, so just cut them off before sanding. |
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| Time to use that template
you made. Set the template on the ribs and spacers one at a time and drill a hole in each one. Align the backs, don't worry about the front, yet. |
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| To the right is the stand
I used, it's
a 2x4 with a piece of dowel stuck in it. You put the 31" piece of thin walled pvc on it. Also I set a toilet paper roll over that to rest the rib cage on, so I had a section of pvc at the bottom. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Ok, the spacers you will notice become bigger and bigger as you go up the ribcage. You need to trim down each spacer to match the rib above it. I also sanded them to become smooth and match the ribs. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - I suggest you keep the numbers on the pieces till the very end. Some are similar in size which you could get them mixed up. |
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| You will want to run them
all up the pvc
without gluing them. BTW, the numbers are 13 - 29 you will need for the ribcage. |
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| Right above rib 18 I
drilled a hole for a
piece of 1/2" SDR 11 CPVC 4120 Pipe, 15" long. I also put a slight bend in it at the 5 and 10" mark. I made sure it fits snug. This pvc is not much wider then a dime. |
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| Ok, now you can glue it
all together. I brushed on Gorilla glue then set a rib, brushed glue set a spacer, brushed glue, rib and so on, till I hit rib 18, there I glued in the pipe then continued on. Below is the spacer where the pipe is. I cut it like below and only used the front and back sections gluing to the front and back of the pipe. |
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| Ok, now for the arms. I
started with a piece of wire 6ft long. I used two sizes of wire, I used a 14 gauge on one of them and a 10 gauge on the other two. Both worked just fine. I kinked/bent the wire in the middle(as in pic A). Next I drilled a small hole in the pipe(as in pic B). Next I ran the wire through the pipe as in the pic above, making sure the kinked section was in the middle of the pipe where I drilled the hole. Now I took my hotglue gun and pumped almost a full stick (large) into the hole (as in pic C). Next I took 2 pieces of dowel(1/2") and drilled a hole in the center and sanded them down so they would fit in the pipe (as in pic D). I then hotglued them in. The reason I did this was so the arms will move independently. I made one of them without doing this and I move one arm, they both move. |
A C |
| A |
More sanding!! In pic A the top bone is what it looks like when I cut it out, the bottom one is what it looks like when I was done sanding. It is the small bone attached to the forearm. Be sure to sand larger bone before ataching the smaller one. |
| I cut off the ribbed part of these plastic
anchors, I only need the top half. I used 2 on each arm bone for a total of 8. |
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| A |
I put one anchor in one end(pic A) then ran
the bone onto the wire, then running another anchor onto the wire and pushing it into the other end of the bone(pic B). This takes a bit of patience but in the end it was worth it to me. To allow me to adjust the bones a little bit. |
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